Mama Liz's Journal
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11.19.03
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 03:52:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Akwaaba
To: Everyone
Akwaaba, and aloha. First, if you are reading this, please pass it in to others I know, as my
email skills are below par , and not everything is getting to where it needs to go.
Also, this is generic to everyone so either ingore personal asides, or not, as you wish.
Max, are you getting my emails or what? And get this to Louie for me. Please call Debra
and tell her I lost her email so send it ok?
Now, about Africa. It's hot and dirty and electric and water are sporadic at best.So why are we having so much fun? Still in Accra, should be going to Obuasi tomorrow, but we've been saying this for days. For all of you in Hawaii who think hawaiian time is slow, you wouldn't believe this.
Where to begin. We'll start with the kids, who are great. I live in a house with the other staff, volunteers and about 8 babies. The other kids live up the road. Sweet kids, affectionate and curious. Christopher is 12, a Liberian refugee who had cerebral malaria at some point. He has no use of his hands, and has difficulty speaking, but he's the best kid, and he's got the best feet. He can do anything. Another kid is Aggie, 18 mos old and weighs maybe 15 pounds. And there's Kofi who dances around like John Travolta, thanks to Mama Lena, a volunteer from Canada.
I want to tell you about Vera's. Vera owns a chop bar in the village; sells food, beer etc. It's where we hang out and have a meal or 2 a day, as orphanage food leaves much to be desired,(taste). She'll make you anything you want, and nobody has gotten typhoid yet so we keep eating there. Go with what works.
Momi, call Viv please and have her come read this, ok? I forgot to add her to the list. So far I've eaten fufu, pounded casava with sauce. You eat it with your hands. Like Emmanuel says, "All hands are welcome." I've had kontumere, like a spinach served on rice. Lots of other stuff as well.The pineapples here are the best in the world.Great watermelons as well. This is all so hard to describe, as you can't see the colors or hear the music that is constantly being played, or the smells, some good, some bad, many fecal.
We transport ourselves in taxis sometimes, mostly tro tros.These are old minivans which have been remodeled inside to hold about 15 to 20 people. I counted 25 kids in a tro tro one time. They stop and you pile in and it costs 800 cedis to get to town. That's about 10 cents, more the farther you go, but still a deal. The guy who lets you in also takes the cedis, and somehow he keeps track of everyone and their change. As you stop for passengers, people with large plates on their heads sell you water, fruit, whatever; at a rapid rate because the trotro isn't waiting.
Town is hot and dusty and there's all these wooden sheds that people sell stuff from. It's a very Christian country, and the names reflect this. "God Solves All Problems Furniture". "Thy Kingdom Come Cafe"(Vera's), "God Never Fails Welding". That's a personal favorite. I've been working with a nurse from Holland, Winnie, who has been here longer than I have. She's helping me with malaria slides. There's also an md from Spain; Monica, who's got some info as well. We've been to Ashiyie Clinic; local run, and they've been helpful too. It's amazing how welcoming and helpful everyone is; so ready to share what they know. When you walk into a store or a clinic, or Vera's, they say" You are welcome," rather than hello, and I really like it. Try it sometime. You are welcome. And try to use the accent as well. And smile. I love it.
So when we get to Obuasi, whenever that is, we'll start with the clinic. Again, Ghana time. But the funds are there. I'll be dealing with a lot of malaria, malnutrition, worms of all types, and whatever adults filter in, and they will. They come up to us all the time with their ills. Some so simple as sore eyes. The women work over the cooking fires, and of course it damages their eyes. We tell them how to rinse with water, but what's so amazing is there is no concept of basic health for many of these folks. Hopefully the clinics at the orphanages will have a woman's center, and we've been working on what we need.
All you American women, quit your bitching, you've got it great there. A lot of the women have very little concept of themselves as anything other than someone's mother or wife. Kind of like America earlier on. The other day I was entering the hallway and noticed Mama Cece coming down the hallway with 2 full buckets, and she started to back up for me. I told her to continue, she was there first.I need to learn to stop jumping on and off my soapbox.Somehow I think my fat, flapping, female American mouth is about to be less than appreciated.
Cisco, I don't have Asa and Sarah's email at home so please get this to them ok? Is it the same as the one on the ship? Winnie just showed up at the internet station Im at, so we'll go back to the clinic together. Cheryl, the kids loved the pictures, thanks so much. I got some postcards of home as well, and when they see King Kamehameha, they all say, ah, he is a black man. Momi they saw your picture too and thought the same thing. Had to explain Hawaiian. To the Africans, you are either black (african) or white, non african, a light skinned black is white.
I should wind this up, but for all you who have written to ask what I need, especially Joanne and Janet, I would love the computers. We need them for so much here, and they are hard to get to. We want all the orphanage clinics to have one, so us nurses can communicate. Just told Winnie, she's beside herself. I'm gonna be all alone with these kids, medically speaking, so yes, yes, yes, I want them. Will tell you the address in a later letter. I also need lots of meds, for malaria, baby formula (powder) a microscope with all the trimmings, stuff to make slides. The list goes on. We have funds coming, but whatever I can get from donations from you folks I don't need to spend money on here. Worm medicine, antifungals, bandages, antiseptic for booboos, and old O2 sat machine, an old glucometer. Whatever is old and useless to you, we want.
The safest way to send is Fedex, but it's expensive, and also a tax writeoff if that helps.
Must go , please write back, I love hearing from everyone. I love you all. Liz Will write
from Obuasi, whenever that is. OB pads, prenatal vitamins, small water cooker, we have no hot
water, batteries, an old otoscope, write soon, drinking cups, spoons,take care of yourselves,
gentian violet, immersion oil, candy bars, old tape player, aloha from Ghana, peanut butter.
Love to all
11.26.03
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:56:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Working hard
To: Everyone
Aloha everyone, I'm great, having fun, on my own with 105 kids, staff, and whoever else comes to me
with whatever it is. Got here almost a week ago, but it feels like I've been here forever. I've never
had people try so hard to make me happy. I've already had 2 kids ask if I'd be their mother. One
little girl, Josephine, 10 yrs old, was sitting out with me waiting for the shower. It started
to rain and she ran in and got a cover for my head. Shes one of the ones who asked me to be her
mommy. Too sweet. These kids are working on me, that's for sure.
So far Ive seen a bunch of ear infections, multiple malaria, a BP of 240/120, which I can do nothing about except wait till she strokes out,(probably tomorrow). Also odds and ends, booboos and stuff. I made the mistake of putting a bandaid on a kid's foot, and sure as typhoid they all showed up with the most miniscule cuts, invisible to the naked eye. Good thing Ive got a magnifying glass. Im kind of worried about that BP; but I have no hypertension meds; and she has no money to buy them anyway. Much as I'd like to I can't buy meds for the whole country; which, by the way, is in dire need of a Tylenol. Everybody is sore from working.
All the kids have a story. Bidum is about 15, a Liberian refugee, and has had her tongue cut out, Don't know why, can't imagine what reason some idiot had to do that, but she cannot speak. I am assuming she was raped. Lots of little girls have been raped; one boy's mother tried twice to drown him. The list goes on and on. I've stopped asking; I don't want to know anymore.
I'm the sanitation queen, by default, as I'm the only one here besides the director and the manager who feels the need to pee in the toilet and not the shower or the yard. So we've been working with the kids to keep the bathroom clean, keep themselves clean, and not let the dogs sit in their food. We have three dogs for security; all very mangy, whom I have banned from the house. One is going off into the sunset very soon; she has this almost dripping skin. This from a woman whose dogs used to sleep in bed with her. Oh well.
I have a wonderful room, Chez Liz, off the kitchen. Gets a breeze, good view of the garden, quite nice. And painted a shade of mustard I've never quite seen before (or imagined).
Went into Kumasi on Sat, took the trotro of death. I think that somewhere in time these folks have confused never with always.So to a Ghanian trotro driver; never pass on a curve had been morphed to ALWAYS pass on a curve. Close my eyes Jesus.They put me in the front seat; nice and roomy; but at the same time I am a front seat witness to what's coming in the opposite direction.
Anyway, Kumasi is the home of the largest market in Ghana. What the brochures don't mention is that it's also the dirtiest, the smelliest, and the one most likely to give you typhoid. But it's fun, very crowded, wonderful fabrics, spices, etc.In the middle of this heat are the fish and meat vendors. These folks sit out in the sun next to the open sewers with large plates of flesh in varying stages of putrifaction; certain that I have no desire greater than to partake of whatever it is they sell. I'm assuming it's some type of dead meat because flies don't land in such large numbers on anything live. I'm eating lots of cheese. But the great thing is I have totally stopped worrying about my weight. I've probably lost 15 lbs in the few weeks I've been here, not even trying. Mostly it's too hot to eat, then there's the knowledge that the flies have eaten first from whatever lies on your plate.
I don't want to sound like I'm complaining. I'm not. I'm having a great time. This is just life in Ghana. Louise, the director, is great. And Peter, a Ghanian, manages the place and also the garden. He's wonderful. We've been to his house a lot, his wife is a great cook. Have heard some fun music, and taken lots of pictures. Yes Max, I've learned how to use the camera.
Let me take care of the personals now. Thanks. Cheryl, the kids love the pictures. I have some pictures of Louie in Disneyland and they thought Eeyore was real. I had to convince them that there's a person inside. You should have seen them when I showed them Louie with Beauty and the Beast. Max, please call Asa and find out if he's getting my emails, I'm using the address on the ship. I have a cell phone now, it took me coming to a third world country to step into the 21st century, go figure. But I can't get it to work right; soon though. I did call Louie from a comm center, and he's fine. Still in Idaho, but all is well. Also Max, pls call Cisco and the kids and see if he's recieving my mail. Don't know. Anyway, hope to get the computers soon, and anything else. What I could really use is money.
OK folks, here comes the first shameless plea for bucks, bucks for orphans. It's expensive to send stuff. But money goes a long way here. 9150 cedis to a dollar, last time I changed a bill. And stuff is cheap. If you want to send an hours wage, or two, send it to me at Adullam Orphanage, POBox 582,Obuasi, Ashanti Region, Ghana. Can guarantee you money will be well spent. I have no overhead, and I work cheap. You can't go wrong.
Had a Snickers bar last week. Holy Smokes. I felt like Meg Ryan in When Harry Met Sally. Well I have to go buy cheese. Most orphanage food is glop, no surprise there. I think in the orphanage cookbook all it says is take 50 cans of glop and add sauce. O well, the kids like it and I don't have to eat it. They have offered me some, bless them, but I have been able to refuse. Finally, food that doesn't tempt me. I'll get used to it after a while. I do like the beans and rice, though. And the fried plantains.
Anyway, to my kids in America, I love you all so much, stay safe, eat well, and don't pass on
a curve. Will call as soon as I can. To those of you who I did not give birth to, I love you
all so much as well. Will send pictures as soon as I find someone who can put them on the computer.
Write to me, it's such a kick to hear from all of you.
Love, Mom and/or Liz
12.01.03
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 10:35:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: There's something wrong somewhere
To: Everyone
Well to all of you who replied to my last letter, thank you. To those of you who didn't,
oh well. No really, Im sure you're all busy living the American dream, buying your fufu and
banku ready made from Safeway, and I just bet your goat meat comes pre skinned and deboned.
Ah, the joys of modern life.
All is well here. This place is a trip. Last week Peter (orphanage manager) and I went to town, and I use the word town so loosely. Anyway, he's been having some trouble with his car, no surprise in Ghana. If the DEQ ever came here there would be 3 cars left on the road. Sadly, I wouldn't be in any of them. I digress, but anyway we parked (on the wrong side of the road like everyone else) and he went in to get the diagnosis and prognosis. After some time he comes back with the news that "There is something wrong somewhere" For this I'm getting heat stroke in the ailing car. The final diagnosis will probably take 3 more trips. Then there's the treatment discussion...
Went to three stores today to buy toilet paper, and finally paid 60,000 cedis, which is a bargain since she was asking 64,000. So we saved about 50 cents.It's a culture addicted to bargaining. I will adapt.
Anyway, the kids are great. My one little boy, Nat, is about 8 mos old, the one whose mother tried to kill him. He's better. I tell you when a Ghanian says to behave or he'll kill you, he's serious. Anyway, I think I told you about him, he mutilates his face when he's hungry, tired, etc. He pulls his ears and scratches his face;it's terrible. We've been working with him and the he's doing it less. Good for Nat. But now he thinks I'm his mama. We can deal with that after he's stopped tearing off his ears. Abigail is 11 and everyone thinks shes a witch, including Abigail. Very superstitious here, curses and such. Anyway, she's the saddest little thing but she's coming around to visit me, and we're telling her shes not a witch, over and over. Sometimes she smiles and acts pretty normal.
The rest of the bunch are fine, all the Simons and Josephs and Moseses or would that be Mosi. Very Christian names here, when all else fails, call a boy Simon or Clement, and call the girls Esther. Lots of Esters. I tried to impress them with a polyesther joke but no go. Anyway, last night I was talking to one of the Mosi, a teacher, and he's having girl trouble. Apparently he has a sweetheart up north, and is pining away because he can't marry her unless he can present the family with 4 cows. It started with 6 but this is Ghana, and you can bargain for anything. So now we play the Ghaha version of 'Send a Boy to Camp'. Please grab your checkbooks and let's buy this boy some cows. They only cost 800,000 cedis, about 90 bucks. I know I spend a lot of time asking you guys for money and stuff, but here's the deal, you have stuff and we don't. If you're in the mood, send me some dough. If not, no problem, just stop reading my email.
I guess the best thing is to send me a check made out to me at Adullam Orphanage, POBox 582, Obuasi, Ashanti Region, Ghana. This is your chance to jump into the National Geographic special that I'm living in. Also need bandaids, antifungals and antibiotic cream. These kids need work. Basically healthy but skinny and full of sores. I was sitting out with the ladies who do all the laundry (mine included, I love this place) and was doing some menopause teaching to women who speak only "small small" english and I decide I really like this kind of medicine. Allah willing I will never practice in the USA again. I don't chart, initial or justify myself. This is great.I do have a book that I use that tells me what I've done and what I'm doing. So that's a charting of sorts.
Anyway, to my kids, I love you and hope to hear from you soon, Asa, Max has my number. Please be
safe and healthy and don't do anything stupid. Louie, get your tooth fixed. I love you all. Please
send me lots of stuff. I sound like the homesick kid from summercamp. Well if this is camp, then
please send me some marshmallows as well.
Love Momliz
12.04.03
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 07:45:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Apologies
To: Everyone
To one and all, I have been made aware that my last letter had an unpleasant edge. So I apologize--
but not too much. You should know me by now. See I can't even apologize. I'm sorry, now it's over.
I'm in severe culture shock. This country can be frustrating, so I guess I take it out on you.
I could yell at people here but they lied when they said this place is English speaking. O how
they lied. I'm beginning to recognize that glazed look that my kids used to give me that means
nothing is getting in.
Remember that lady with the BP of 240/120? Well she's still that high and has no money for meds. Her monthly salary is just a little more than the cost of the meds. Doesn't leave much for fine dining and such. Anyway I said I'd buy her meds. This is where it gets good, folks. She doesn't know the name of the med but she does have 1 pill she saves to take to the pharmacy. So she sends Abigail to get it and she comes back with this pitiful, lint covered yellow pill that has the engraving all worn off. So I'm going pharmacy to pharmacy to match it; and so far I can't. Also got a lady with angina and no meds. Someday all the laundry ladies are gonna drop dead right out in the yard.
I sent this other woman to the lab for TB and HIV testing; she is obviously dying of something. So she comes back with a diagnosis that her blood is bad, which tells me a lot. She also has a small packet of pills with no name on it. People here aren't told what they have,or the name of the med. I asked why she didn't question the doc; she said if they ask they're chastised for questioning the doc. So we ask her what else the doc gave her and she hands me a large container that used to hold vegetable oil.
I open it up and sniff, and it's kerosene; not on the top of my list for blood tonics. Apparently, she had the container with her to give to a friend, filled with kerosene to start her cooking fire. So the pharmacist pours her blood meds into the kerosene and sends her on her merry way. Remember this is a cash and carry society;you have to provide your own containers for meds.Unbelievable, but fortunately she hadn't taken any. Although in my frustration I needed to be restrained from taking a large dose myself. That and a cigarette should just about do it.
The kids are great, despite it all. Got out some oranges the other day and caused a riot. The next day I had some hard candies to give out, and gave them to Mama Lena to hand out. She asked me if I wanted to do it, I said no I had to go, so I just snickered and left her to the hoards. So now I need a new victim to pass out stuff.
OK to the technical stuff, Vivian please call 885 4444 and ask for station A, Please talk to a nurse and give them my email address, I'm not getting to them, don't know why. My phone number, Max, and anyone else who cares, is 011 233 24 425998. For all you who wrote to say you have your checkbooks out, first thank you, and please send it to Annette Clibourne, Adullam Orphanage, POBox 582, Obuasi, Ashanti Region, Ghana. For those of you who have computers to send, maybe it's not a great idea. We have no phones except cell phones. And I don't see any lines going up near my place, so I will continue to use the internet cafe. But for those who have asked what to send, toothbrushes, bandaids, antibiotic and antifungal cream. I know I wrote this in my last letter, but all my letters are generic so when someone new asks, you all have to hear it again. Fedex is the only safe way to send, so keep it light; they charge, judging by the medical supplies I sent, by the ounce.
I am beginning to really enjoy this internet, It's almost like talking to all of you. Anyway,
Mama Lena and I have to go home, lots to do. But the internet cafe is air conditioned so its difficult
to leave. Will send pictures as soon as I fill up my memory chip. Eric, the internet cafe manager,
keeps playing the same Celine Dion tape over and over; they love her here, also Kenny Rogers, So I
have to leave before I pull out my gas can and fix his blood as well.
Love to all, Lizmom
12.12.03
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 07:30:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: New and exciting stuff
To: Everyone
Akwaaba one and all. Have been trying to email everyone for days, but Obuasi has 1 email place and
it's been down. So when my friend Emmanuel came to tell me it was up I lit out of there like my pants
were on fire .It's my big chance, hope it sends.
WellI've had the veranda enclosed and now have a temporary and most likely permanent clinic. It's wonderful, there's my consultation area, and in back is a bed for my sicklets.So now all the kids are showing up symptomless, but sick and needing to lie in. It's too funny, they troop in from daylight on holding various parts of their anatomy, looking as sick as they possibly can. I have books and toys there as well, so it's the in place to be.In front of the clinic is the baby area. We had them inside in the heat all day, so now it's screened in and they're out there playing and flyless, more or less. So that's good.
I had my first meeting with the village women last night. We did breast self exams, these ladies want this info. I had about 30 of them at the clinic. It was great.And thanks to the American Fundation garment industry I've got a good rack in Africa. So we're all in my room shirtless and braless, doing the exam. Also discussed other issues, and will try to have a meeting weekly. So now they know I'm here, and I work cheap, actually free, and they've been filtering in all day. Did some breastfeening teaching today, very successful. I will never work a real job again. I'm loving this. One of the women came today who was here last night to talk about her husband, who had a stroke 7 yrs ago and hasn't had his BP checked since. Yikes. So tomorrow I meet the village chief. Is this cool or what? The news about the meetings goes out on dawuro (gongo) It's drums that send info, Ghanian smoke signals.
But the best thing is I have met this wonderful nurse named Allswell Ackon, who has been an RN in Ghana for thirty years and knows EVERYTHING. She has a women's clinic and maternity center in the middle of this area called Gausu. It's right out of the Unicef infomercials-- with garbage and rivers of human waste running through the town. I know about the river of waste because I stepped in it and had to stop and wash.I just realized I have failed to make this sound so wonderful; but wait. The clinic is in this rented house with a labor and delivery room, a postpartum section, and consultation room. It's funky,but fabulous.It's as clean and safe as any clinic anywhere. She said she will let me attend births, and she will teach me to deliver babies.It's colorful and cheerful. Just wonderful. I've always wanted to know how to deliver babies, but don't want to go back to school.Besides, where I am on the job training is fine. So it's been an exciting week.
Everything else here is moving along at the usual snails pace. Peter went to visit my speakers yesterday (they've been at the repair shop for about 3 weeks now) and they said "Theres someting wrong somewhere" Well since I brought the speakers in I guess they must be right. I tell you that's the national anthem here. But when I get the speakers fixed, or buy new ones, whichever comes first, probably the second option, the clinic will be flooded with painful people needing music to survive whatever ails them.
Personals. Max I forgot the info you wanted, I was in such a hurry to get here before the computers screwed up again. Will get it to you soon. Asa have your friends visit the website. There's an address if they want to send money, or use my POBox I gave you earlier.Tell your friends thank you for me. Ann, still haven't reached my friends at North Hawaii. . Pls tell them Ive been trying to contact them, and no luck. If you can give them my email address I'd appreciate it. Louie, thank you for fixing your teeth. I'm happy you did that. Momi how was Boston? Joanne, how's the microscope hunt going? 80% of fevers are malarial, so thats how we treat, but I'd love to know for sure. So far I haven't gotten malaria, which is good since I keep forgetting to take my pills.
Anyway, I need to get back because there's some guys from the mosque coming to give us bucks and food. I arranged for the kids to get snacks every day, 3 days a week bananas and peanuts; and 3 days a week a hardboiled egg. The other day after the egg giveaway some of the kids took my hand and said God bless you madame. They call me madame or auntie. But it was just an egg. That kind of stuff is hard to hear. Kids shouldn't have to be so grateful for an egg.
We've got a turkey on the property that I'm planning to kill in about 2 weeks. I'm being nice to him
right now; not yelling at him when he pecks banku scrapings out of the cookpot.Gonna stuff him with
bread and apples real soon. Went to a place called Anyinam Lodge last week. Had a hamburger. Fabulous.
With a bun and everything. Tried not to think about the guy at Kumasi Market selling the flymeat while
I ate. Glad to report only a small moment of nausea. Stephanie, thanks for the info, Im on it. Well,
Emmanuel said to save this before I send it. I guess so. If I lose this I will be the first internet
suicide in Ghana. Anyway, I love you all, and still taking pictures, have some good ones, will get
them on as soon as I can.
Hasta pronto, Lizmom
